For the kayaking we had the I option to kayak or not depending on the conditions. We decided to pass on the kayaking to instead make a landing on the Antarctic mainland itself. Previous landings had been on islands in the Antarctic peninsula.
As it happened we made the right choice as the weather was bad for kayaking. Instead we landed on Neko Harbour, this harbour is named after a whaling ship that anchored there.
Directly on the beach young gentoo penguins were splashing around between chunks of ice swept ashore. These give them room to learn to swim safe from the ever hungry leopard seals ready to ambush at any opportunity.
We were hurried off the beach though ostensibly because falling ice from calving glaciers can cause tsunamis that could sweep away people on the beach. We reluctantly left the cute penguins splashing clumsily on the beach and followed the humans and penguins heading up the hill.
About this time it began snowing and the day felt like a christmassy winters day in England. The view from the top of the hill was amazing with huge cravasses, calving glaciers, penguins, icebergs and predatory skuas all in the same frame. Also our ship the MS Expedition looking tiny and lost in the scene despite being our entire world during these ten days.
On our way back down from the hill Kirren took the opportunity to try making a snow angel. The snow may have been too icy but here's the photo for you to decide. We also took turns sliding down the hill with Kirren taking a long fast slide and me cautiously pulling myself along on my front.
I don't think I'd ever get tired of watching the gentoo penguins. The way they gingerly walk along, wings spread awkwardly for balance, then stumble land on their stomachs and push themselves along with their flippers. At this time of year the parents make the chicks work for their food by running away from them when begged for food. This leads to hilarious chases where two or three penguins clumsily smash into one another knocking each other into the mud then all scrabble up to resume the race.
Today a penguin i like to nick name "patriotic penguin" was staring transfixed at a way marker flag the crew had dropped. I would love to know what it was thinking as it stared intently at it.
The penguins form "penguin highways" to and from the beaches where long lines follow in single file. Occasionally humans and penguins formed one patient line up the hill. It was nice to see how accepting they are of us in their colonies.
In the afternoon we approached Danco Island where we had tried to land previously but been prevented by the weather. Kayaking was possible so Kirren and i decided to go as it would likely be our last opportunity to go. As it happened we would regret our choice.
The weather kept getting better and the water around the island was very clear and calm. We spotted a seal then chased him around his iceberg home trying to get a better look. Further on we paddled past enormous and beautiful icebergs.
We had paddled around the island when we reached a patch of water where whales were hanging out. We paddled towards one's footprint (which is the patch of flat water left when a whale dives) and waited for it to surface. When it did we paddled closer, close enough to hear it's breathing. Then it dived and our instructor told us to tap out kayaks so that it knew we were there. Moments later it surfaced right behind us giving us all a shock. It was amazing spending time not more than two meters from such giants and hearing them. We were all very happy!
As this went on we also saw a leopard seal swimming around and then pumping on to an iceberg which was just like something out of a documentary.
Our whole ship had been lucky with seeing whales from the zodiac motor boats and those that landed had seen Skuas and leopard seals hunting gentoo penguins.
This day pretty much topped off my trip, in the evening there was a costume party where Kirren dressed up a won a prize as "Ninja penguin". We drank that night then regretted it the next day. The hotel crew's band " Monkey eating eagles " gave a great performance of many classic songs which made for a great and very loud night.
The next few days in the drake passage were stormy and filled with sea sickness, card games and lectures by the ship's crew.
The last day we had a nice and completely stable meal in the Beagle Channel which have is the chance to see people for the last time and enjoy the ship's awesome food.
We even got to see dolphins from afar. All in all an amazing trip! We're already researching Arctic cruises for the future.
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