We arrived in Amritsar airport just before diwali the sikh and hindu festival of lights. Amritsar is the holy city for Sikhs with the holiest shrine being the Harmander Sahib also known as the golden temple.
The temple was being renovated in some areas with inlaid marble patterns which looked pretty good.
The kitchen in the temple prepares meals for thousands every day, seeing mountains of vegetables and chapati making machines was eye opening.
After three hectic weeks in India the Punjab was a welcome break. Lush green fields covered the horizon and traffic was minimal which was a nice change.
Kirren's grandparents' house lies just outside the village of kang sabhu which itself sits between two small cities. Their house also adjoins kirren's grandfather's brother's house next to another brother's house. These houses are surrounded by the family farm which was interesting to see and take photos of. In India marihuana grows wild as a weed which I think would hamper agricultural productivity if it grew on UK farms.
As such there was lots of family to meet and practice my child like Punjabi with. There is only so much conversation you can make with "I would like tea" and "i speak a little Punjabi". I was pushing through my 30 lesson Punjabi pimsleur audio course but it still only equipped me with enough for basic conversation. Our driver seemed infinitely amused by my ability to read Punjabi newspapers (with no idea what the words i was sounding out meant) and saying hello. In this part of the world i think white people are a big enough novelty besides white people that stab blindly at speaking Punjabi.
We visited the cross border changing of the guard between India and Pakistan which was a great show full of pomp, silly hats and stirring anthems. It was pretty much treated like a football match by both sides and in good humour. Unfortunately this was in the news because of a terrorist attack on the Pakistani side after the ceremony the following week. My friends believe that i am leaving a wake of political uncertainty and tragedy behind me on my travels and this seems to fit their pattern (russia/ukraine civil war, Hong Kong protests, etc), thanks guys.
It was nice to see a part of India that few non Indian westerners see, learn about Kirren's culture and see where the stories i'd heard about took place. Kirren's family were very friendly and welcoming.
Also, i was treated as a celebrity. I think the fame craving English people crowding British TV would be better served moving to India to feel like rich celebrities.... rather than crowding British TV. Anyway, here is a small selection of some of the random Asians that wanted photos with me. I also had a mother pushing her baby into my arms for a photo. It's a very odd experience.






















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